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Trip report by - April 2003


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Just back from five fabulous days on Grand Cayman! We gained tons of helpful info from those on this board and a few others, and wanted to return the favor by posting some of our experiences.
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Travel

Air: We flew Delta, with a connection in Atlanta. No problem with flights, which were as scheduled and on time - they even fed us on the ATL to GCM leg.
Car: We got the best deal through Budget at the airport - Suzuki Jeep with air and auto transmission for US$45 daily. This was about $18 less per day than Andy's for a similar vehicle. It was great having our own transportation since we were staying at the North end of 7 mile at London House.
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Accommodation

London House - right on the beach: Can highly recommend these condos! Very comfortable, nicely furnished, lovely grounds and friendly, attentive staff. We had booked a one bedroom Ocean Front. When we arrived we found these were all on the ground floor. We prefer the second floor because we like to sit out on a balcony. They upgraded us to a two bedroom upstairs, also oceanfront, for the same rate. These units had a full kitchen, dining area and living room, with two bedrooms and two baths on a second level. There was maid service every day but Sunday. They provide hairdryer and beach towels (had I known, I could have saved the room in my suitcase). They also have a nice pool, hammocks, shuffleboard (the kids staying there loved this) and a barbecue.
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Food

Since we had the kitchen, we stocked up at the market. We really liked Foster's in the Strand Shopping Center on West Bay Road. There was also a Kirk's market further south towards George Town, but they didn't have as good a selection. We hit the Tortuga liquor store in the Strand for beer and wine the first day. Later, we found a coupon book (they are everywhere - check the airport or your hotel/condo) that offered 10% off purchases at Big Daddy's liquor. We didn't need to restock, but if you're going to be buying adult beverages, check for the coupon as it might save you a few bucks. We got great take away sandwiches/salads and desserts for our day trips at the Coffee Grinder Deli, which is in the Queen's Shopping Center at the south end of West Bay Road.
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Restaurants: We loved Bed and the Reef Grill, both along West Bay Road. Both had excellent food. Bed had a funky, intimate atmosphere. Dining outside at the Reef Grill was an elegant experience. We had a great lunch on the deck at the Cracked Conch the day we arrived and enjoyed the quality time we got to spend with their resident macaw named Xanadu. We also had dinner there, which was fine. The beach grill at Rum Point food was serviceable, but a bit pricey for lunch. We also made the trip to Liberty in the West End. Several guidebooks and the island magazines raved about their buffet on Wednesday and Sunday nights. We went in and had a look, but it hardly seemed appetizing - more like a NY deli buffet that had been sitting out too long. To be fair, we did arrive later in the evening. Still, it was really unappealing.
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Fun Stuff

My husband and I love to snorkel, so our game plan for this trip was just to drive around the island finding places to jump in and swim with the fish. Unfortunately, the day before we arrived there had been a storm. On our first full day on the island, we found the entire length of the western coast had extremely rough, choppy surf. We headed up to Rum Point, which was a bit calmer. Visibility there was great and we found a great spot to snorkel about three quarters of the way out to the right of the pier - an easy swim from the beach. There was a line of rocks underwater that were home to a huge variety of fish. Highlights of the day included spying a yellow stingray burying himself in the sand, and a seahorse attached to the vegetation in the more shallow water. I mentioned that lunch was pricey at Rum Point, but it was still a great day as we lazed in the hammocks and popped in and out of the water. It was about a 40 minute drive.
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Stingray City!!!!!! This is incredible and should not be missed! We went with Captain Dexter and had a fantastic time! He was the perfect guide and we had about 12 people on our trip. First stop was the Sandbar. I'm still in awe of the experience of having so many of these creatures swimming around us and rubbing up against us. They were extremely gentle, and no one on our trip got any "hickeys". Dexter was wonderful and offered just the right amount of encouragement to those that were nervous. NOTE: This experience might seem a bit unnerving for some - the stingrays are a lot bigger than we had anticipated and there are soooo many. But you really should give it a try. They congregate around folks with the food so if you're nervous you might want to stand back from the group a bit. After the sandbar, we were off to another location to snorkel for conch. Finally, we did a trip out to the reef - which was also spectacular. There were amazing fish, and we also saw a "wild" stingray, e.g. one that wasn't from the sandbar buffet line. Captain Dexter fed his pet eel, "psycho". I thought it would just poke its head out and grab the food. We were shocked to see this 6 foot creature swim up to the surface and writhe around the water - amazing!
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Cemetery Reef - North end of Seven Mile Beach - was another superb snorkel experience. Reef is about 100 yards out. By the third day, the water here was much calmer and it was an easy swim. Again, a great variety of fish and incredible visibility. We spent a lot of time in the water since it was so warm there was no hurry to get out.
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Smith Cove - Decent snorkeling right off shore, along the rocks to the right, past the rock tunnel, but visibility was not as great as some of the other locations on the island (still way better than other islands we've been to). Smith Cove is just south of George Town and is really a very pretty location, but we were disappointed to note a lot of trash and broken bottles. If you're walking around barefoot, be careful of broken glass!
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Seven Mile Beach - We went snorkeling right in front of the London House and saw three turtles! - just a few yards offshore.
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Hell - Okay, we had to visit so we could say we'd been there and back. Bought the T-shirt, sent the requisite postcard. But really, if you're not already up that way, you can give it a miss.
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Shopping - Didn't really go to shop, figured everything would be more expensive than home, but found two "good deal" places. Across from the post office in George Town, on Eduardo Street I think, there is a shop called Bliss. Very pretty and eclectic selection of handbags, jewelry and accessories - all pretty reasonably priced. Perfect for any female on your souvenir list (our daughter was quite pleased with her hair accessories) or yourself (I love my bracelet). The Kirk Freeport stores carry Herend China. I collect Herend figurines and found a limited edition Herend Stingray, available only in Grand Cayman. It was less than US$200, which is much less than you'd pay for a comparable piece in the US - a perfect memento of our visit. As we were leaving, I also noted their Royal Dalton china figurines were inexpensive compared to the US, but my husband hustled me out the door before I went into a buying frenzy.
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Conclusion

Overall, this was a spectacular vacation and I can't wait to go back and spend more time. We've snorkeled other spots in the Caribbean, Mexico and Australia and this was the best destination we've visited. So many snorkel spots, incredibly warm water, great visibility and probably the most fearless fish we've ever encountered. They actually come up to you - looking for food. You can buy fish pellets at the dive shops. Pop those open in the water and you are instantly covered with what appears to be a suit of sargeant majors. Also, tons of parrot fish, jacks, angelfish, wrasse, needlefish, barracuda and of course the stingrays (we didn't see a single shark).
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While it can be expensive, getting a condo is a great way to cut down on the cost of dining out. Also, getting a car, even for a few days, really allows you some flexibility in exploring the island! Close This Window
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These pages are © Robert Clark, 2004.
Date last updated: 24th May 2004
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